The Digital age has brought so many advancement in photography. Every image I create can be adjusted to evoke a different feeling based on color, cropping and retouching during post processing. Sometimes I realize what a subjective process photo editing really is. See the three images below. Is there a best one or is there just a best one for a certain person? I invite your comments…
Here are 5 tips to keeping in mind when posing kids.
1) Shoulders are the largest part of a kids body. When photographing them, have them swing their arms to shift their shoulders back away from the camera.
2) Hands show the child’s comfort level. Make sure to pay attention to them. They should be relaxed and not gripping each finger for dear life. Also make sure not to crop the hands off at the wrist. Use them for gestures like pulling a face close to them or putting them on their hips to strike a pose.
3) Arms are great for bending. Straight arms aren’t as interesting.
4) Similar to arms, legs are great for bending. Avoid cropping at joints, feet, ankles or knees.
5) Pay attention to the curves their body makes. Position them with hands in pockets or on hips and have them tilt their bodies. S curves make compositions more compelling.
Most importantly, let them be silly and have fun.
Photographing newborns is incredibly rewarding but also very challenging because they don’t take direction, they can’t be bribed and they can’t sit up. Here are a few tips to keep in mind when photographing a newborn…
1. Make sure you have time and you are patient. Most likely they will need a bottle or diaper change during your session.
2. Find beautiful light to put these special little ones in to show off their natural beauty. Strobe lights can disrupt the babies so natural light works best.
3. Make sure you have a few additional hands around to help.
4. Find some really cute accessories to dress the baby up in, i.e. hats, scarves, booties, etc.
5. Try and have fun or be willing to abort if the baby is cranky. You can also put the baby to bed and create great sleeping images of him/her.
Photographing your loves ones can be one of the most rewarding experiences as a parent. Here are some helpful tips to keep in mind.
• Are your subjects doing something they love? If you’re shooting them “happy” – be it playing in the park, or listening to a bedtime story, you’ll get the best results.
• Be creative. Photograph your subject from a variety of angles & distances.
• Consider location. When choosing a location, be sure to assess the background.
• Understand your equipment. Read your manual so that you can achieve your technical and artistic goals.
• Available light. Find the direction of your light source and place your subject accordingly.
• Fill Flash. Use your flash to fill in shadows around the eyes and the rest of the face even on a sunny day.
• Timing is everything. Be patient and wait for the right moment to press the shutter – even if that moment comes on a different day.
• Have another adult on the scene. It’s tough trying to be a successful mom and photographer at the same time!
• Back up your work to an external hard drive.
Sign up for my Photographing Family class starting at the 92y next week for more instruction and discussion of how to capture special moments that you will cherish for a lifetime.
Contact Karen Haberberg Photography for to set up a portrait session of your own family so you can be in the photos as well!
Whether you are an amateur or professional photographer, there is no better organizing and editing software program out there. In minutes you can color correct, change exposure, label images, create collections and more to dozens of images, all with the click of a few buttons. Don’t break the bank with Photoshop CS6. Simply download the demo of Adobe Lightroom to see how impressive it is.
If you already own it, here are some tips to get you started.
The Lightroom Import Window
A. Source panel
B. Toggle Minimal import
C. Preview area
D. Options and Destination panels
When you import photos into Lightroom, you can reference the photos in their existing location, or move or copy them into a specific folder.
- In the Library module, do any of the following:
- Click the Import button.
- From the main menu, choose File > Import Photos.
- Drag a folder with photos or individual photos into the Grid view.
- Click Select A Source or use the Source panel on the left side of the import window to specify the location of the photos you want to import.
- In the top center of the import window, specify how you want to add the photos to the catalog:
Copy As DNG
Copies camera raw files to the folder you choose and converts them to the Digital Negative (DNG) format.
Copies the photo files to the folder you choose, including any sidecar files.
Moves the photo files to the folder you choose, including any sidecar files. Files are removed from their current location.
Keeps the photo files in their current location.
Select the photos that you want to import from the preview area in the center of the window. A check mark in the upper-left corner of the thumbnail indicates that the photo is selected for import.
- To filter photos in the preview, select one of the following:
New Photos excludes suspected duplicates and previously imported photos. Destination Folders (available when copying or moving photos into a catalog) groups photos by their destination folder. Select All Photos to remove filters.
- Click the Loupe View button in the toolbar to zoom in to a single photo.
- Click Check All or Uncheck All in the toolbar to globally select or deselect all photos in the folder.
- Click the Sort pop-up menu in the toolbar to sort photos by capture time, selected (checked) state, or filename.
- Drag the Thumbnails slider to adjust the size of the thumbnails in the grid.
- To select or deselect specific photos in a folder, click the box in the upper-left corner of the previews. Or, Alt-click (Windows) or Option-click (Mac OS) anywhere on the thumbnail to select and deselect photos.
- If you are importing photos by moving or copying them, specify where to put them in the Destination panel.
- If you are importing photos by moving or copying them, choose one of the following from the Organize menu in the Destination panel:
Into One Folder
Copies or moves the imported photos into a new folder.
By Original Folders
Maintains the original hierarchy for the folders that contain the imported photos.
Specifies a date name for the folder that contains the imported photos.
Importing photos into Lightroom: Basic workflow
You must import photos into the Lightroom catalog to begin working with them. Importing tells Lightroom what photos are in the catalog, and whether they are imported directly from a camera, hard drive, memory card reader, or other storage device. During import, you can choose either to move or copy the photo files into a specific folder, or reference the photo files in their current location. As photos are imported, you can rename them, apply Develop module adjustments to them, embed metadata and keywords, and even back up the original photos to a different folder.
The visual import window allows you to preview, select, name, and add information about the photos you want to import. To import photos into Lightroom, follow these basic steps:
1. Connect the camera or memory card reader to your computer.
In addition to cameras and memory card readers, Lightroom imports photos from any folder on the hard drive, CDs or DVDs, and other storage devices. You can also import photos from another Lightroom catalog or from Photoshop Elements (Windows).
2. Select the location of the photos to import.
To bring photos into the catalog, do any of the following:
- Click the Import button in the Library module.
- Choose File > Import Photos.
- Drag a folder that contains photos or drag a group of photos into the Grid view of the Library module.
Use the Source panel on the left side of the import window to navigate to the folder that contains the photos you want to import.
3. Choose how to add the photos to your catalog.
In the center of the import window, choose whether to import photos by referencing them, by copying or moving them to a specified directory, or by copying photos as Digital Negative (DNG) files. If you copy or move photos, specify where to put them using the Destination panel on the right side of the window.
4. Preview and select photos.
Using the previews in the center of the window, select the photos that you want to import.
5. (Optional) Back up your photos as they’re importing.
If you’re copying or moving photos into the catalog, specify whether to make a one-time backup of the original photos as they’re imported.
6. Select the type of previews to display.
Standard-size previews provide higher quality photos in the Grid view. Selecting Minimal uses the embedded previews in photos and initially displays photos faster.
7. (Optional) Give your files a custom name.
When copying or moving photos into the catalog, Lightroom by default imports photos using their current filenames. You can customize the name by choosing an option from the File Renaming panel. For example, you can add a sequence number.
8. (Optional) Set options for importing your photos.
In the Apply During Import panel, set options to apply Develop settings, metadata, or keywords to the photos as they’re imported.
9. Click Import.
Lightroom displays a progress bar in the upper-left corner of the window as it imports the photos. Then it renders thumbnails in the central area of the Library module.
Check back for more information and check my upcoming courses at karenhaberberg.com to learn about my course offerings.
I have a student, Joyce Manowitz, who loves to manipulate her photographs. I thought it might interest you to learn how she does it.
The first image in each set is the original.
1. Transferred photo from camera to IPhoto.
2. Click on edit and enhanced the photo.
3. Dropped the photo into elements.
4. Clicked on Filter, distort, polar coordinates: clck on polar to rectangle.
5.Clicked on filter distort shear: clicked on wrap around.
6. Clicked on color hue and saturation
7. Clicked on image crop.
8. Clicked on file save.
1. Transferred the picture from the camera into I Photo.
2. Clicked on edit and enhanced the photo.
3. Clicked on rotate and rotated the photo 90 degrees to the right.
4. Clicked on crop and cropped it.
5. Clicked on straighten and straighten the photo.
6. Clicked on adjust and and clicked on levels exposure contrast, sharpness and reduce noise.
7. Clicked on done and dropped the photo into Elements.
8. Clicked on Enhance , adjust color hue and saturation.
9. Clicked on Lighting. shadows, highlights, brightness contrast and levels.
10. File and save the photo.
Check out karenhaberberg.com for information on my workshops.
PHOTOGRAPHY PRODUCT NEWS
I am often asked, “I want a new camera, what should I buy?”
In my opinion, it doesn’t make sense to purchase a point and shoot camera unless it has manual features because it’s easy to just whip out your iphone.
The new micro 4:3 cameras with interchangeable lenses are definitely worth looking exploring. They are fast, small, lightweight, easy to use and have a lot of very cool features.
Check out the Sony NEX 6 or 7 mirrorless camera and the Olympus OMD. Beautiful images — but the cameras and lenses aren’t cheap. The body and kit lens run anywhere from $800-$1300.
However, if you aren’t a professional photographer or serious hobbyest, they could replace your digital SLR and your back will definitely benefit from not carrying around all that heavy equipment!
Here is a helpful review of the NEX 6.
- Lens quality: Are the lenses of a particular vendor known for their quality, both optically and mechanically (what is known as build quality)? Does this vendor offer multiple lens lines with economy lenses that might be a little less rugged but affordably priced, as well as pro-style lenses with the ultimate in sharpness and ruggedness? Depending on the type of photography you do, trading off a little weight and replacing a few metal parts with tough plastic might be important. Or, you might require lenses that can take punishment and still deliver sparkling results.
- Focal length ranges: Some vendors are stronger in the telephoto lens department and weaker when it comes to providing wide-angle lenses. Some do a better job with certain kinds of zooms than others. Make sure that vendor of the camera youʼre contemplating offers lenses in the focal lengths and maximum apertures you require. If not, see whether you can fill in the lenses you require from third-party vendors, such as Tamron and Sigma. These manufacturersʼ optical offerings might be completely satisfactory — or they might not. Itʼs best to see whether the lenses you will need are readily available at a price you can afford.
- Special features: Focal lengths, zoom ranges, and maximum aperture arenʼt the only features you want in a lens. You might need close focusing, fast auto focus (which is partially dependent on the design of the lens), or the ability to control the out-of-focus areas of animage. (Nikon, for example, has a line of DC lenses that are great for portraiture because youcan control how the defocused areas look.)
The lens on the camera primarily controls what viewing angle an image will be taken at. The viewing angle of a lens and the size of the image relative to that of the object is expressed by its focal length, measured in millimeters (mm) -the distance from the middle of the lens to its focal point.
Fish-Eye Lenses (6mm – 16mm) This type of lenses drastically distorts reality, by expanding the view of angle far beyond what would be considered normal for human vision. With an extreme fish-eye lens you could photograph holding your camera straightforward and still get your own feet in the picture. This type of lenses are often used for the special effect they create but can also be used to photograph interiors where there is not space enough to compose a proper image with amore regular lens.
Wide-Angle Lenses(18mm – 35mm/ focal length shorter than normal, and angle of view wider)Wide-angle lenses are probably the most common lenses around. They do expand the angle of view, but a good quality wide-angle lens can do so without distorting the image. This type of lenses also expands the perspective within the picture, which means that things that are close in distance will seem to be farther apart when seen through the camera.
Normal Lenses (40mm – 60mm / angle of view of the diagonal about 50°: a focal length approximately equal to the diagonal produces this angle) This category of lenses closely corresponds to the natural perspective of the human eye. Normal lenses are simple in construction and often produces the highest optical quality in terms of resolving power and lack of distortion. Normal lenses do not expand or contract perspective but simply see things in terms of perspective as they appear to the human eye.
Telephoto Lenses (Long Focus Lens)(75mm – < / focal length longer than normal, and angle of view narrower) When trying to capture anything further away then you can or wish to reach telephoto lenses can come in handy. By narrowing the angle of view they function just like binoculars bringing what is visually far away much closer. Telephoto lenses will also flatten the perspective within the image. When photographed with a Telephoto lens, subjects far apart in reality will seem to be much closer in distance.
Of course, the only problem with using prime lenses is that you must be willing to swap lenses whenever you decide to shoot something else or when you need a different perspective that you canʼt get by stepping closer or farther away. Digital SLRs have one additional consideration: If youʼre working in a dusty environment, you might not want to change lenses a lot because each time you take off a lens youʼre letting some dirt invade the camera body, and that dirt might end up on the sensor.
Lenses can be made to cover a single focal length or to be variable in terms of focal length.
Fixed focal length lenses
These types of lenses have the highest optical performance and they also support the largest aperture openings. The fact that the focal length cannot be varied can be to a disadvantage but some photographers claim when continuously using a single focal length lens you eventually learn to see and compose your images after that given perspective so that when you lift the camera you have already positioned yourself in the right place at the right moment to take the picture you intend.
These types of lenses can be very convenient to use since they can cover a large degree of focal lengths within the same lens and therefore minimizing the need for additional lenses. Most common zoom lenses cover a focal length from a wide angle to a telephoto, typically35mm – 75mm. Constructing a zoom lens is far more complicated than constructing a lens with a single fixed focal length. Because of this zoom lenses are often of a lower optical quality than fixed focal length lenses, they can also be considerably more expensive. Another drawback with zoom lenses is that they canʼt support as wide aperture openings as fixed focal length lenses can.
Stay tuned next week for more on camera lenses.
Check out www.karenhaberberg.com for information about workshops and classes.
High Dynamic Range, or HDR, is a digital photography technique whereby multiple exposures of the same scene are layered and merged using image editing software to create a more realistic image, or a dramatic effect. The combined exposures can display a wider range of tonal values than what the digital camera is capable of recording in a single image.
HDR will tend to be unusable with moving subjects. Software such as Photoshop makes merging the
images easy. Some cameras like the 5d Mark 3 can do this within in the camera.
It’s a great tool when you have very contrasty image as seen at night because it is capturing three different exposure and sandwiches them together to make one image. This gives more details in the shadows and highlights.
• When photographing portraits in low light, a ﬂash can be very helpful. Figure out the proper
exposure of your subject and then ﬁre off your ﬂash . Try lowering the power output of the ﬂash
to minus one or underexpose your image slightly.
• Use a slow shutter speed to let in the ambient light. 1/30th of a second.
• A light modiﬁer is suggested to diffuse the light. Also, if you can get your ﬂash off your camera, you have more options for lighting your subject.
This concludes the How to Photograph at Night series with Karen Haberberg. Visit www.karenhaberberg.com for more samples of her work.
A silhouette of your little one can be a piece of art. Here are some tips on how to create something you can hang on your wall and admire. Step 1. Photograph your child’s profile against a white background. Step 2. Go into an editing software program such as Lightroom or Photoshop and convert the image into black and white. Increase the contrast to 100 percent. Step 3. Next go into Photoshop and go to Filter/Sketch/Stamp as seen in image 3 below. Step 4: Use the paintbrush tool in Photoshop and fill in the portions of the image that aren’t black.
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